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Portugal Part II - The North

Jonathan van Bilsen

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August 2, 2024

Portugal Part II - The North

Portugal is on the bucket list of many people I chat with, and an even greater number have visited this beautiful country in the past several years. I made my first visit here 36 years ago, when i stayed briefly in Lisbon and then spent a week in the Algarve region. This time i am spending two full weeks exploring the north, primarily the area around Lisbon, and the far northern reaches. Because this country is so spectacular, I concentrated last month’s column on the area around Lisbon. Today I will head north and explore Porto, and several cities in the north.


The time difference between Toronto and Portugal is five hours and surprisingly, Spain is an additional hour. This is because the Spanish fascist, prior to World War II, wanted to be aligned with Germany.


Portugal was a kingdom until 1910. The revolution resulted in a dictatorship until 1926, when a fascist regime took over. Remaining neutral during World War II, a second revolution, one much more peaceful, led the country out of Fascism into a parliamentary nation, in 1974.


Today Portugal, not immune to problems, seems to be more focused on football than on politics, with stronger opinions about players and strategies, than government issues.


The city of Porto, like so many European centres, has an historic area; which is where I would recommend staying. There are many hotels near the city hall, which will put you within walking distance of most everything you will want to see.


The Lello bookstore, associated with J.K. Rowling, is necessary to see, although the author of Harry Potter never set foot inside. The magic of the staircase, bookshelves and volumes of literary treasures will astound you. It is important to note you need tickets, set for a specific time. These should be purchased days in advance on line, as that is the only way to get in. I found a 9 am entrance is the best, as the store will be empty when you enter.


The McDonald’s in Porto should also be visited (you do not need to eat anything), but it is listed as the most spectacular McDonald’s in the world. The beautifully decorated Imperial Cafe building, has been restored to its original splendour.


Around the corner from the restaurant is the train station. Built in 1916, it is adorned with more than 11,000 tiles, depicting various historic scenes of Portugal.


The churches in Portugal will leave you breathless, and there are too many to mention. I took a boat ride on the Douro River, through the downtown of the city, and found it a great way to see the historic buildings that lined the shores. Make sure your camera is fully charged, as each turn presents a new postcard view.


Another touristy thing to do is walk along the Dom Luis I bridge, to view some great vistas. People mistakenly believe this bridge to have been designed by Gustav Eiffel, but the bridge he created has been closed for 33 years.


A day trip from Porto will take you to one of the finest wine regions in the world, the Douro Valley. The scenery is an amazing array of rolling hills, small villages, thousands of hectares of vineyards, complete with century old wineries. Many offer a traditional lunch, consisting mostly of cod, paired with wines and several varieties of port, all produced locally.


Port, of course, originated here and is a combination of wine and usually, brandy, blended in a specific way. After an enjoyable lunch, a sommelier gave me a private tour of the cellars, explaining in detail how their wonderful products are created. He also showed me a bottle of port, valued at €4,800 (about $7,200 Canadian). I did the math in my head and decided against trying a glass, as it would mean cashing in my return airfare.


An afternoon boat ride on the Douro River, completed the adventure and watching the rolling hills pass by was relaxing.


Two cities I enjoyed immensely were Guimarães and Braga. Guimarães is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, and is home to a majestic castle that once housed the counts of Portugal during the 10th and 11th centuries. Next to it is the exquisite Bragança Duques Palace, which is also worth the visit.


Braga, a city steeped in religious significance, boasts a history that spans over 2,000 years. A trip to the Bom Jesus Cathedral was amazing, and well worth the visit. A water-powered funicular will take you to the top, and after an enjoyable visit, a walk down the 573 steps is invigorating.

The ocean is of course a big draw, and I visited the northern most point in Portugal, the mouth of the Minho River. Spain was a stone’s throw away and the sea air was refreshing.


Nearby I visited Viana do Costelo, one of the most beautiful towns in the entire country. On my way back to Porto, I stopped at Ponte de Lima, located in the heart of the Lima Valley, which holds the distinction of being the oldest town in Portugal.


Northern Portugal is picturesque, historic and a sanctuary for foodies. The people are wonderful, the weather is enjoyable, and the sights are magnificent.


Jonathan van Bilsen’s photosNtravel TV show can be watched on RogersTV and YouTube. To follow Jonathan’s travel adventures visit photosNtravel.com

Jonathan van Bilsen’s photosNtravel TV show can be watched on RogersTV and YouTube. To follow Jonathan’s travel adventures visit photosNtravel.com

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