Iceland, Where the Weather Changes Every Ten Minutes

When I first had the chance to visit Iceland, I realised how little I actually knew about it. I pictured endless snow, sleet blowing sideways, and a tiny island clinging to the edge of the Arctic. The reality was very different.

From eastern Canada and the northeastern United States, Iceland is now an easy, direct flight, with frequent year‑round services from cities like Toronto, New York, and Boston, and seasonal routes from others. When I landed in Reykjavík in late January, the temperature was about seven degrees Celsius, much milder than southern Ontario had been the day before. Thanks to the warming effect of the Gulf Stream, I was very surprised to see no snow on the ground during the 40 minute drive from the airport.

Reykjavík, the capital, felt more like a compact European city than an isolated outpost. More than half of Iceland’s 400,000 residents live in the greater Reykjavík area. As the island is volcanic, geothermal energy is everywhere. Hot water is piped from a massive water tower system, known as ‘The Pearl’ (largely due to its unique shape. It travels through a gigantic pipe system underground to heat homes, businesses, sidewalks, and even some roads. Entire neighbourhoods, and much of the city’s electricity, are powered by this clean energy. I made a point of visiting a geothermal beach, and fully expected the North Atlantic waters to be chilly. You can imagine how surprised I was when I discovered the water had a temperature ten degrees higher than the surrounding ocean.

What truly astounded me, though, was the mindset of the people. Icelanders are quietly sophisticated, globally aware, and highly educated, yet deeply rooted in their own language and traditions. The economy is strong, driven by tourism, fishing, technology and creative industries. Wages and the cost of living are high, but social services are generous: education and health care are publicly funded, and income inequality is relatively low.

Crime remains rare by international standards. Icelandic police are lightly armed, and prisons hold few inmates. People leave baby prams (with children sleeping soundly in them), outside cafés while they sit inside with a coffee; no one seems concerned. My guide told me a story about a major crime that happened a few years ago. The police began their investigation by checking the prison, and discovered the only known ‘big’ criminal on the island had just been released. With so few serious offenders to consider, they drove straight to his family home and arrested him. On a small island, their list of possible suspects was already down to one.

Reykjavik feels more like an intimate coastal town, than a bustling metropolis. It stretches around a broad bay, with colourful houses, corrugated-metal roofs, and views of distant snow-dusted mountains. I found the compact downtown easy to explore on foot, and was pleased to find many independent boutiques, design shops, and excellent restaurants, including several that regularly appear on ‘best of’ lists. It was fun to explore the bookstores, design shops and galleries that showcase Icelandic creativity.

Cultural life is lively, with music venues, theatres, festivals and museums covering everything from Viking history to contemporary art. Despite its northern latitude, Reykjavík feels surprisingly cosmopolitan, with a vibrant nightlife, and locals who generally speak fluent English. It’s also the ideal base for day trips to waterfalls, geysers, lava fields, and the nearby Blue Lagoon.

Beyond Reykjavík, the landscape is astonishing: sheer waterfalls tumbling off moss‑covered cliffs, geysers erupting every few minutes, black sand beaches, and the visible rift where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates pull apart. I walked through that crack in the earth at Thingvellir National Park.

There is a catch, of course: Iceland is expensive. Food, drink and accommodation all come at a premium, especially in peak summer season, though competition and a wider range of options, have helped somewhat. Still, locals tend to shrug; they are paid accordingly, and many benefit directly or indirectly from tourism.

The light is another quirk. In June, Reykjavík barely gets dark, which is perfect for midnight walks and late‑night music. In December, daylight is brief, but the long twilight and the chance of northern lights make up for it. Icelanders joke, “If you don’t like the weather, wait ten minutes,” and it is true. You can experience sun, wind, rain and calm in a single afternoon.

Package deals and stopover programs from Europe (Edinburgh is only two and a half hours away) with Iceland’s airlines, make it relatively easy to add a few days in Reykjavík, on your way between North America and Europe. Prices and details change too quickly to quote, but airfare‑plus‑hotel offers, starting at $2,500, remain a common way to visit.

If you go expecting a frozen, barren rock, you will be surprised. The only ice you may notice, as I did, is the kind clinking in your glass while you sit in a warm café, watching steam rise from the hills beyond the city.

Jonathan van Bilsen is an award winning photographer, author, columnist and television host. Follow his travel adventures at photosNtravel.com.