Eswatini, Where the heck is it?

I never tire of visiting Africa, and when I crossed the border into Eswatini, previously Swaziland, I was surprised there were no grand gates or elaborate ceremonies. Nestled between South Africa and Mozambique, this small nation, one of Africa’s last absolute monarchies, felt more like a tight-knit community than a political novelty.

The road wound through gentle green mountains and wide valleys, dotted with homesteads. Cattle wandered about lazily, and women in bright, patterned wraps carried heavy bundles. The landscape had a textured feel, with its repeats of hills and sugarcane fields.

In the capital, Mbabane, life was without rush. Government buildings sat alongside small shops and roadside stalls. No monumental skyscrapers or chaotic traffic here. Instead, I found conversations. People asked where I was from, why I was visiting, and what I thought so far. The warmth was immediate and genuine.

To truly understand the kingdom, though, I needed to look beyond the capital. The cultural heartbeat was strongest in traditions woven into daily life. Ruled by Mswati III, Africa’s last absolute monarch, Eswatini sees debates over its political system, yet here it coexists with strong community identity and enduring customs.

It did not take long for me to realize the corruption within the government. In 2007, the king purchased a private airplane, which cost 40 million USD… enough money to feed the population for two years.

I visited a traditional Swazi cultural village, and saw thatched beehive huts, which formed a circle, symbolising family structure and hierarchy. Cattle signified wealth, respect for elders anchors community, and ceremonies like Umhlanga, the Reed Dance, reinforced national unity.

Driving through the Ezulwini Valley, fittingly called the Valley of Heaven, I stopped at a hotel in an area known as Pigg’s Peak. After checking in, I chatted with one of the porters, and asked where the hotel got its name. He explained how the first settlers had a surname of Pigg. He continued, "They had a daughter who married a fellow whose last name was Hogg." he laughed out loud and several people looked over. I couldn’t help but chuckle at his history lesson.

Markets displayed woven baskets, carved wooden figures, colourful beadwork, as well as fruits and vegetables.

Wildlife added another layer to the experience. Eswatini may be small, but its conservation efforts are noteworthy. I saw rhinos grazing in the distance, giraffes moving elegantly, and impalas scattering at the slightest hint of danger.

What struck me most about Eswatini was its scale. In a single day, I could travel from mountain passes to savannah, from craft markets to quiet rural roads. Distances were short, but experiences varied. Unlike larger nations where travel means long hauls between highlights, here everything seemed close by. The compact geography encouraged exploration without the exhaustion.

The kingdom of Eswatini resisted full colonial takeover longer than many neighbours. Independence came in 1968, and the country formally reclaimed its indigenous name, Eswatini, in 2018.

Evenings brought a softer pace. I sat outside as the sun slipped behind the hills, turning the sky shades of orange and violet. Distant voices drifted through the cooling air. No intrusive city noises or flashing lights. Just a steady calm.

As I prepared to leave Eswatini, I realised how amazing my visit was. Many people skip countries like Eswatini because they are small and virtually unknown in our world. I am glad I did not miss the opportunity.